What is the best oil to protect an axe hatchet's handle?

In the world of tools, there’s an unsung hero—the wooden handle of an axe. It's not just the blade that demands care; the handle is the lifeline, the soul of the tool, and neglecting it is a rookie mistake with serious consequences.

Wood, left to its own devices, will dry out, crack, and shrink, especially where the handle locks into the axe head—a critical point where any give could spell disaster.

Much like the living wood of Groot that forms Thor’s Stormbreaker, an axe handle demands proper care to preserve its power and integrity.

The key to keeping your axe in fighting shape isn’t just sharpening it's mighty steel blade, but nourishing the wood with care.

The secret?

Regular oiling, a ritual as old as woodcraft itself.

 

Gränsfors Bruk small forest axe

Linseed oil, specifically boiled linseed oil, stands as the top choice for many professionals when it comes to maintaining axe handles. This oil penetrates deep into the grain of the wood, providing a durable protective barrier that nourishes the fibers from within. Linseed oil is rich in natural polymers that harden over time, offering both flexibility and resilience.

It helps prevent the handle from drying out, cracking, or shrinking, ensuring a tight fit between the handle and the axe head. Moreover, it enhances the wood's natural beauty, deepening its color and providing a subtle sheen that speaks of both craftsmanship and care.


In addition to boiled linseed oil, there are other options to consider.

Tung oil, another plant-based oil, is often favored for its ability to provide a harder, more water-resistant finish. While it takes longer to dry and can be more expensive than linseed oil, tung oil offers a high level of protection, making it an excellent alternative for those looking for superior water resistance.

Oil Name	Benefit	Potential Con
Boiled Linseed Oil	Deep penetration, hardens the wood, prevents drying and shrinking.	Can become sticky if applied too thickly or not wiped properly.
Tung Oil	Superior water resistance and a hard, durable finish.	Longer drying time; typically more expensive.
Danish Oil	Provides a durable, water-resistant finish with a natural look.	May contain synthetic additives, making it less “natural” than pure oils.

The frequency of oiling your axe handle largely depends on how often you use the tool and the conditions in which it is stored.

For regular users, especially those who work in harsh environments like wet or dry climates, oiling every 2-3 months is recommended.

If your axe sees lighter use, oiling twice a year should suffice.

It’s also wise to reapply oil whenever the handle appears dry or loses its sheen. In particularly dry conditions, the wood can shrink faster, so pay attention to any changes around the axe head, as this area is prone to loosening.

Always clean the handle before reapplying oil to ensure optimal absorption.

How to properly oil an Axe Handle

Clean the Handle

Before applying any oil, ensure the handle is clean and dry. Use a cloth or a soft brush to remove dirt, dust, and any old, flaking oil. If the wood is rough or has small splinters, lightly sand it with fine-grit sandpaper (220 grit works well) to smooth out the surface, ensuring better oil absorption.

Apply Boiled Linseed Oil

Using a clean, lint-free cloth or a small brush, apply a generous amount of boiled linseed oil to the handle. Make sure to coat the wood evenly, paying special attention to where the handle runs through the axe head. The wood in this area is particularly prone to shrinking, so thorough oiling is crucial.

Allow Time for Absorption

After applying the oil, let it sit for at least 30 minutes to allow the wood to absorb as much oil as possible. Wipe off any excess oil that hasn’t soaked in. For a new handle or one that’s very dry, repeat this process two or three times, allowing the oil to fully penetrate the wood fibers.

Buff and Cure

Once the oil has been applied and the handle has absorbed it, buff the handle lightly with a clean cloth to remove any remaining residue. Allow the handle to cure for at least 24 hours before using the axe. For best results, reapply oil periodically—every few months or after heavy use.

Once you are oiled up, time to sharpen your axe blade safely!

>> How to choose the best oil for your lawn mower

How to choose the best oil for your lawn mower

Just as you should regularly change the oil in your car or truck or chainsaw, the same should be done for your lawnmower.

If you want to have the best looking lawns in the street, you'll need your lawnmower to have a sharp blade and to be filled with the best oil so that while you are pushing the damn thing, the engine operates well and gives a long lifetime of service.

You could be tempted to think of your lawnmower as being 'just a lawnmower' so any kind of automotive car oil will do but that could mean the difference between extending the life of your lawn mower or causing it to clog and become inoperable. This is especially so if your mower doesn't get used very often. 

So if you want the 'good oil' on what to put in your grass cutter, read on.

Type of Oil	Reason to Use	Brand Example
5W30 Synthetic	Operates well in most outdoor power equipment; suitable for a range of temperatures.	Toro Synthetic Oil
SAE 30W	Specifically designed for small engines; reliable in moderate temperatures.	Briggs and Stratton SAE 30W
10W40	Can be used in small engines without increasing consumption; good for varying temperatures.	Amsoil 10W40
Small Engine 30W	Specifically formulated for small engines, ensuring optimal performance.	Briggs and Stratton Small Engine 30W

What kind of oil do I need to use in my lawnmower?

The temperature of the climate in which you will operate the lawnmower will have an influence on your oil needs.

Lawnmower engine experts Briggs and Stratton advise that "Engines on most outdoor power equipment operate well with 5W30 Synthetic oil. 

For equipment operated in hot temperatures, Vanguard 15W50 Synthetic oil provides the best protection."

What that means for you as the oil user is that you need to check what range your engine will run on. The easiest way to do this is to check your engine's user manual for the manufacturer's recommendation. If you have lost the manual or never had one, then use a search engine to find a PDF of it. 

A general rule of thumb though is that engines on most outdoor power equipment operate well with 5W30 Synthetic oil.

Here's a handy guide produced by the engineers at Briggs and Stratton to help you decide:

Once you have found the right kind of oil, it's now time to consider what brand of oil you want to use. 

Cheap and cheerful or bespoke oil made for an exact kind of engine? 

We typically recommend you avoid the cheapest range of any tool or safety gear or oil and most certainly do the same with lawnmower oil - we suggest you used tried and trusted brands - because these oils have been road-tested in many machines being pushed many thousands of miles. 

If those brands didn't cut it, they wouldn't survive in the market. If you don't believe me, read this tale of how the Slitz company turned a quality beer into a joke and ran their brand into the ground.

One rule of thumb to bear in mind is that the older your engine is, it's more likely that it will suit the traditional SAE30 oil ranges.

Recommended oil: Briggs and Stratton Small Engine 30W

If you want tried, trusted and true, Briggs and Stratton oil is for you. 

There's a reason this is one of the world's best known brands. 

Quality.

Briggs and Stratton is arguably the biggest named player in the lawnmower engine market (Husqvarna is probably second). Their engines are known for 'going and going' so much so that several other 'big name brands' simply use the Briggs and Stratton engine on their own branded push machines as a selling point.

So, the biggest name in lawnmower technology is sure to have a quality oil product for their machines and their version of 30W for small engines is most likely what your engine would benefit from.

We think this review from a genuine user on Amazon is just perfect:

"Bought a brand new lawnmower, and didn't want hubs to blow this one up too because he forgot to put oil in it."

Classic and it's always worth a reminder that if buying a new lawnmower, you need to add oil before you use it or you will destroy the engine.

Order some oil on Amazon.

Can I use synthetic oil in my lawnmower?

Yes, you can use synthetic oil in a lawnmower. Oils like Amsoil are designed for more modern engines.

Synthetic oil is a small engine lubricant full of chemical compounds that are artificially made using chemically modified petroleum components.

The benefit of using synthetic oil is they tend to offer better viscosity, wear and deposit control, and low-temperature fluidity.

This means that if you regularly use synthetic oil in your lawnmower (over the long term) then you greatly increase the chances of long service life and reduce the need to replace your lawnmower at year 6 instead of year 10 (excuse the hyperbole!).

So the regular use of synthetic oils in your engine reduces the chances of it failing and thus in the process, extends its service life.

The only real downside to using this kind of oil is that it is usually priced significantly higher than standard oils.

Check out this example from Pennzoil for example, their 530-30 Full Synthetic can price over 50 bucks!

Using Toro Synthetic oil with a lawnmower

Designed to work across a range of extreme conditions, Toro synthetic oil will handle the heat and the cold to help you get your lawns cut.

It will work especially well with new model mowers that are designed to work with this type of oil.

Toro is a massive brand worldwide, in addition, to push lawn mowers they produce golf cars, ride-on mowers, spray equipment, diggers, bunk rakes, and top dressers.

So they know engines and they know oil so you can be sure the oil is engineered and tested to meet the needs of their machines.

This means due to its quality, Toro oil will do most lawn mowers a favor in terms of engine performance. It certainly meets the performance requirements of brands such as Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, Honda, Tecumseh, and Craftsman!

Check out the price on Amazon. 

How often should I replace my lawnmower oil?

Many car owners change their car's oil once a year as part of an annual tune-up up. It lengthens the life of the engine as its parts are protected from wear.

For smaller engines, the comparison is the same - many lawnmowers will change their oil once a year in the spring when the grass starts to grow long and the mower is used more regularly. 

This is tied to the use of the mower - your mower can have varying needs depending on use hours. A lawn that's mown for half an hour once a month, may only need a change once a year but a weekly mower of a larger lawn may require two changes. 

A ride on mower is probably more likely to benefit from a change at 100 hours of run time and annually. 

If you feel your engine isn't performing well, a change of oil may help. As we always recommend, your user instruction manual should be able to give you advice - and it will be good advice too because the dudes and dudettes who made the engine have tested it to the ground in the lab so they will know how their machine works under so many conditions. 

How to remove old oil from a lawnmower

When it comes to changing lawn mower oil, there are certainly a few tips and tricks that you can do to make sure you have an oil splash free transfer.

So now you've understood the reasons why you need to regularly change your engine's oil, the next question might be how!

Items you may need to change the oil:

• A pan or contain to catch the old oil 
• some old rags or cloths 
• A wrench with appropriate socket size for the oil drain nu 
• Engine oil that suits your needs 
• Funnel 
• Siphon or oil kit system if you are going to siphon rather than drain

Location of the oil change

The first thing to do is consider the location where you will drain the oil already inside the mower.

Naturally, you'll want to avoid doing this operation on your grass lawn or near your garden in case of spillage.

To that end, a concrete surface such as a driveway is ideal. You'll, of course, want to lay down newspaper or cardboard to catch any oil drops that may collect to avoid staining the concrete.

Warm the engine before you drain the oil

It is best to have turned the lawnmower's engine over for a few minutes before you drain the oil. This is because particles that have collected will be floating around in the old oil.

Take care that when draining the oil that the engine parts are not too hot - you may need to use gloves if you have run the engine for a while. It's also now time to disconnect the spark plug to prevent any accidental ignition of the engine.

There are two ways to remove the oil:

1. Using the oil drain
2. Using a siphon pump

Locate the oil drain plug on the underside of the push mower

Clean the general area with an old cloth to prevent any external debris from falling into the crankcase when you open the drain plug.

Tilt the mower deck and then position some newspaper and an oil pan or jug beneath the mower.

Then take a socket wrench to run the plug counterclockwise. This allows the oil to drain into your collection device. Once the oil has fully drained, secure the drain plug by twisting clockwise and tightening gently with the wrench.

If your mower has an oil filter, it's the opportune time to replace it as well.

Removing the engine oil with a siphon kit

If your preference is to siphon via the oil entry point rather than drain, a siphon kit might be just the ticket.

Once you have your siphon at the ready, place one end of its tube into the oil fill hole and make sure it has reached the bottom of the reservoir. The other end of the tubing needs to be placed into a container that will not knock over during the process.

Engage your siphon and do your best to empty as much of the used oil as you can.

Tilting the engine on its side slightly can help pool the last of the oil and the tube can be manipulated into a position to collect the last of the oil.

These kits can also be used to transfer fuel from your car or fuel container directly into the lawn mower's fuel pump. A handy way to make an efficient transfer!

Once you have completed the siphoning, you are ready to add some new oil. And what could you use?

So you've got your oil, it's now time to add it to the engine.

How to add oil to your lawnmower

This is the easy part of lawn mower maintenance! 

1. Open the oil dipstick and remove it and check that you do actually need oil! 
2. If the reservoir is empty, add the manufacturer's recommended amount. 
3. You can pour the oil directly from the container or use a plastic funnel (or one you have fashioned from some scrap paper). If you make a mess, wipe the oil up with an old rag or paper towel.
4. Screw the dipstick back in place and run the engine for 30 seconds so the oil can get around the engine's internal parts. 
5. Unscrew the dipstick again so you can check the level - hopefully, the oil is bang on the 'full' line. If you have underfilled, top-up. If you have grossly overfilled you may wish to remove some oil. 

Nice work, you've replaced your engine oil. 

How much oil should I add to the lawnmower?

Lawnmowers come in varying sizes but generally speaking, you can break them down into two sizes, walk-behind mowers or ride on.

• For walk-behind mowers, the oil capacity is about 15oz or 18oz.
• Riding mowers tend to have an oil capacity of around 48oz or 64 oz.

As we need to keep stating, the exact amount for your engine will be found in the user manual and if you don't have it do hand, google it - they often can be found in a PDF format at the manufacturer's website.

What happens if I add too much oil?

Too much oil in the sump can be too much for the engine to handle. It might start to burn white or gray smoke. If you see this happening, it's time to change the oil. Drain it and then add the correct amount.

Too much oil can also prevent the engine from starting properly and there is nothing more frustrating on a Sunday afternoon if you can start your mower, especially if you are the cause!

An excess of oil can also potentially mean that it gets aerated and thus its performance declines.

You can check if you have too much oil but using the dipstick. If the oil is over the full line, you'll need to remove some oil.

How to dispose of lawnmower oil environmentally

If you have collected the used push lawn mower oil, please do not dump it down the drain or garbage bin. For the sake of the environment, there are plenty of places that will take your old oil.

Many services centers, dealerships, and gas stations will do this. Some mechanics do so as well for the 'locals'.

It's good to be green.

Is lawnmower oil the same as car / auto oil?

You might be eyeing up that bottle of Castrol car oil you have in your shed with an eye to adding it to your push lawn mower as it could save you a trip to the hardware store.

So can you use motor oil?

Technically speaking, yes. Four stroke small engines can use car oil. However, motor oil is generally designed for the hot and heavy conditions of a car that will be driven for long periods. 

A smaller engine will benefit from oil that is designed for it - this is why most brands and manufacturers recommend oils like Toro or Briggs and Stratton's version of SAE 30W.

If you have a two stroke engine (say a Honda), then you must absolutely only add two stroke oil to the fuel.  Two-cycle motors simply cannot use motor oil.

You'll also be wise to not use oil designed for big engine / heavy duty machines for small engines - you probably do not may have a viscosity that could actually cause a clog or even disable your unit.

Can I use 10w40 oil in my lawn mower engine?

10w40 can be used in a small engine and most users do not report an increase in consumption. It's related to the viscosity of the oil and manner it will operate in cold or hot temperatures. 

How to change a lawn mower oil filter?

If your lawnmower has an oil filter, you will need to change this once in a while so that it can continue to do its job of helping to keep your engine oil clean and free of gunk.

Once you have selected the correct filter for your engine (OEM or branded) follow these steps.

Locate the oil filter and twist it counterclockwise until the oil filter can be removed. 

If you cannot free it with your hands, you can use a pipe wrench or filter wrench.

Observe if there is dirt or other debris on the seal and clean it off with a rag (we love old towels for this).

Take your fresh engine oil, rub the clean sealing gasket with oil so that it appears clean and well-lubricated.

Take your new filter, remove it from the packaging and place it into the filter adapter and gently screw it in by hand. When you feel it's snugly in, tighten firmly with a wrench but do not over tighten it as you could cause some damage. 

Here's a handy video tutorial on how to change the filter on a riding mower - the principle is the same for the push mower:

Two stroke oil engines - add oil to the gas directly

If you have a two stroke lawn mower then you are going to do things a lot differently than as described. You will need to add the oil directly to the gas, just the same as you would a petrol chainsaw.

When fueling your lawnmower, you'll need to add the correct two stroke oil in the correct ratio to the fuel, before you add the mixture to the engine. How much to oil add to the petrol? As always follow the manufacturer's instructions.

I've got a brand new lawn mower, what do I do with the oil?

If you have brought a new lawnmower (even a battery powered one), it will not have oil in it, and if you run it without, you will break your engines internal working parts in pretty good time! So, get some oil and get it in. Run the engine, check the level is filled properly, and go cut some grass!

briggs and stratton, honda, husqvarna, kohler, lawn mowers, lawnmower maintenance, oil, synthetic oil, toro

Gränsfors Bruk Small Forest Axe: Review

There are many kinds of axes in the world but we feel you define them into two groups, they are either designed and hand made by Gränsfors Bruk and then there is everyone else in the axe market such as Hultafors or Wetterlings...

Or what ever Gimli prefers...

 
The Gränsfors Bruk Small Forest Axe is excellent for felling trees and climbing about the forest or range and is a quality tool when compared to similar kinds - what sets it out is its strength of character in the field and that it's one of the sharpest axes you can buy 'off the shelf' without having to hone its edge yourself. 

The axe is delivered with a sheath and features:

• Length with handle: 19 inch, Comes original Gransfors "Axe-book"
• A reason weight: 2 lbs
• It's perfect for splitting small sticks or cutting limbwood
• The Small Forest Axe is excellent for felling trees and limbing
• Cut your own kindling wood with ease (it's fine for urban use).

The small forest axe, as the name implies would not be ideal for someone looking for an axe to whittle and carve wood (that would be a more straight-edge model axe), however, if you are looking for a bit more power in your swing, you might prefer an axe as it's 19-inch handle allows for increased momentum and control with harder strokes.

While not specifically a survival axe or hatchet, its utility means you can consider it for such purposes. It is certainly a suitable axe for having around a cabin or lodge and taking on a busman's camping trip. 

Because Gransfors Bruks are handmade, they’re all going to be a little bit different from one another. 

They aren’t perfectly smooth and polished, each axe comes from the forge with unique characteristics - and so they are not all uniform in look. 

As you would expect, the hatchet only weighs two pounds which is quite lighter than 'standard sized' woodman's log splitting axes, so it is light enough to carry around with you on your hip or in a rucksack.

They will all have the same weight and feel - and that is in part due to the handles are shaped from American hickory, which time has shown is simply one of the best kinds of wood to use for axe handles (the other popular kind being Ash).

Don't take our word for it, however, here are some Amazon reviews from users who have felt the hickory in their hands and swung the head down hard: 

"This axe was highly recommended by Cliff Jacobson, in his excellent book "Expedition Canoeing" He had such good information in there. Some of which I already knew, so I took a chance on his tool preference. He's right! You can bet your life on it. You can shave with this thing! It has great balance, and great handle design. Perfect size for a car. Big for a pack, but you get full performance in a relatively small package."

"This has to be my favorite axe for packing out into the country when camping and hunting."

"The Rolls Royce of axes. Be VERY careful, these things are RAZOR sharp. I've never had an axe that was this sharp, I figured something as thick as a axe head couldn't be sharped like a filet knife but I was wrong. This thing can literally shave the hairs off your arm when new. I've used it a couple camping trips and it's the perfect size."

"Great product. Axe is quite light. Very high quality materials used. Holds a very sharp edge after a lot of use. Great all around axe and very portable!"

"This axe is an amazing axe! It is traditionally made, no synthetics! When it came, the grind was perfect, and was the sharpest thing I have ever felt. The reason why I took off a star was because this axe is ment for soft woods. This axe has no problem getting dull when I use it in hardwood such as maple. I shouldn't say dull, I mean "less sharp" than before but still useable. This is meant for alpine areas, such as woodlands with a lot of pine trees, or birch and beech trees."

"Weight is balanced very well. Handle curvature is amazing in the hand, well, as comfy as if gets for a tool."

If you think this axe will help you sever limbs from trees quite well, check it out on Amazon.

Remember to oil your axe regularly. 

axe, bränsfors bruk

May the PBW Be with You: Harnessing the Galactic Power of Cleaning in Brewing

 For homebrew enthusiasts and professional brewers alike, cleanliness is a cornerstone of successful brewing. 

Powdered Brewery Wash (PBW), developed by Five Star Chemicals, has become an essential product in maintaining immaculate brewing equipment. 

Originally designed for use in Coors Brewery, PBW's effectiveness and safety have made it a popular choice across North America's brewing communities.

Benefits of Using PBW

PBW excels in removing stubborn residues from brewing vessels, such as the protein build-up at the bottom of a stainless steel boil pot. Its ability to break down these residues without scrubbing makes it highly valued among brewers.

With a biodegradable formula, PBW is an eco-conscious choice. It is designed to be safe for septic systems, reducing environmental impact.

Beyond brewing equipment, PBW is effective in cleaning various kitchen appliances and utensils. It can be used to clean dishwashers, remove odors from organic substances, and even help strip labels from beer bottles.

Unlike more caustic cleaners like sodium hydroxide, PBW does not pose a significant risk to the skin and does not emit strong odors, making it safer for home use.

How to Use PBW for Optimal Results

Using PBW is straightforward and requires minimal effort:

Step	Description	Details
Preparation	Measure PBW	Determine the level of soil on the equipment. Use 1 ounce of PBW per gallon of water for light cleaning, and 2 ounces per gallon for heavily soiled equipment.
Cleaning	Soak the equipment	Fill the vessel with the PBW solution. Ensure all surfaces are submerged. Leave the solution to soak overnight, allowing PBW time to dissolve and lift residues.
Rinsing	Remove PBW and residues	After soaking, drain the solution. Rinse the equipment thoroughly with clean water to ensure no cleaner remains. Multiple rinses might be necessary for optimal results.

Cleaning vs. Sanitizing: A Crucial Distinction

It is important to note that cleaning with PBW does not equate to sanitizing. Cleaning removes visible soils and residues, preparing the surface for effective sanitization.

To ensure that all potential contaminants are eradicated, a sanitizer such as Star San should be used after cleaning, especially if the equipment will not be used immediately.

The Science Behind PBW

PBW's formula is engineered to tackle tough residues found in brewing environments. The primary active ingredients include:

• Sodium Metasilicate: This compound is effective against oils and grease, breaking down organic compounds that can soil brewing equipment.
• Sodium Percarbonate: When mixed with water, it releases hydrogen peroxide, an oxidizing agent that helps in cleaning and has mild sanitizing properties.

This combination allows PBW to effectively remove the protein residues and hop oils that cling to brewing vessels, ensuring a comprehensive clean without the need for harsh scrubbing.

HANDY TIP: Sodium Percarbonate is a great cleaner that can be found in ordinary home wash products, If you buy it in the form of laundry soak, it will be super cost-effective.

DIY PBW: Homemade Alternatives

For brewers interested in a DIY approach, a mixture of TSP/90 (Trisodium Phosphate) and Oxiclean can approximate the cleaning power of PBW. While this homemade solution can be effective, it is important to understand the distinct roles of its components: Oxiclean primarily sanitizes, whereas TSP/90 acts as the cleaner.

Incorporating PBW into your brewing cleaning regimen can greatly enhance both the ease and effectiveness of your brewing process.

Its ability to thoroughly clean without harsh chemicals, coupled with its versatility and safety, makes PBW an invaluable tool for any brewer seeking to maintain the highest standards of cleanliness in their craft.

The best water proof lawnmower covers

Choosing the best cover for your lawnmower

If you don't have a nice and dry place to store your battery powered lawn mower or you want to store your mower for the long term, a waterproof cover will help keep the mower free of dust and rust.

It doesn't matter if you have a push or sit-on mower, both kinds of machinery can succumb to the elements if not stored under some form of cover properly so it's really important to get some heavy-duty cover care.

Have you ever had to replace a spark plug in a mower because it rusted out?

Chances are poor storage was in part to blame as it was exposed to moisture.

It also doesn't matter if your grass cutter is gas or electric & battery powered, both kinds of engines need protection from the rainy elements and general dampness.

What to look for in a lawn mower cover?

• Needs to be waterproof to keep moisture off the engine
• It should be made of heavy-duty, tear-resistant material
• Easy to take on and off
• Is a universal fit
• It is resistant to mould building up
• Will block UV light radiation
• Doesn't need to be a brand name, can be generic

Our recommended product is the ToughCover Premium Waterproof Lawn Mower Cover - it meets our criteria and is good value for money:

The ToughCover features a drawstring around the base to help keep everything snug and will help keep it attached should it be subject to windy conditions if stored outside.

If you are planning to store the lawnmower outside, it clearly needs to be resistant to all kinds of weather conditions - water is the obvious one but it's got to be able to keep the wind out as the wind will place dust and dirt on it. 

In some parts of the country snow is a problem and so the cover needs to be able to keep that out too - especially when the snow melts!

The WeatherPRO is a slightly cheaper cover:

WeatherPRO decree their cover is made with 100% Marine-Grade advanced Polyester material with special co-polymer additives which assures it offers UV protection and water repellency.

A user left a review on Amazon:

"Very nice cover. I had been using a much more flimsy style cover from another source. Seemed like that particular cover would never last more than a few months in the elements, so I searched Amazon and gave this one a try for a change. This one has been on my mover for a few weeks now, and it does a great job covering pretty much the entire lawn mower. Much more coverage than my old cover did.

It also holds up in bad weather much better than any I've had.

We've had several bad thunderstorms, with the covered lawnmower out in the open, and this cover takes torrential rain and heavy wind like a champ. Lawn mower bone dry under the cover even after the bad storms. Amazed by how nice this cover is for the price. Awesome product"

If that spins your wheels, check out the price on Amazon:

Briggs and Stratton and Husqvarna all make covers but remember, you can simply buy generic, one size fits all options at a cheaper price if you want!

What's the best protective cover for a ride on lawn mower?

Ride on lawn mowers naturally benefit from covers, especially if you don't have a shed or shelter and they need to be left outside. Aside from the weather, ride on covers protect against pollen, bird shit and debris such as pine needles.

All the big brands such as John Deere make them, and so we're featuring Deere's product:

• Dual vents let air circulate and help prevent ballooning in winds
• Elastic shock cord in bottom hem for a quick, custom fit
• Coated fabric for maximum water protection
• Handy storage pocket reverses into an attractive storage case
• Fits all 100 - X300 Series riding mowers.

This cover should fit most standard size ride on lawn mowers. If you need a bigger size, John Deere has it

If you are looking for a cover that's more economical, then we're heading back to Tough Cover for their handy product.

• The Tough Cover is crafted with 600D marine grade fabric and features double-stitched seams for enhanced durability over its long lifetime.
• The durable fabric cover is designed to suit most common-size lawn tractors with decks up to 54" and to ensure convenient application and maximum protection.
•  Allows an effective coverage of the entire surface of your riding lawn mower and comes with a practical storage bag for your convenience.

john deere, lawnmower cover